Our ride comes as a bus full of indigenous transvestites called 'Mushes'. Led by a transvestite with only one arm called Amaranta. The whole thing is too surreal for words, we hop on and wave at everyone, and head to 'Playa Cangrejo' or 'Crab Beach', imaginatively named due to the large number of cute white crabs that scuttle around at night.

Damian and Pena are going to work with them to record sexual awareness shows for Zapotec radio and these are the actors/actrisses.

Gay music plays, the Mushes clap and sing and laugh the whole ride long.

At the beach I run into Candido, Soraya, Paul and the rest of the african drummer troupe. Im glad we ran into each other since I hadnt gotten a change to properly say goodbye in Oaxaca. We talk about the coincidence or lack thereof. An old Zapotec woman is cracking on to me and its strange. We order a huge feed of fish, octopus and shrimp cocktails and beers. We talk about Oaxaca and Lobo then go swimming in the lagoon nearby.

Soraya points out a single flower sticking out of the lagoons sweet water and a fisherman promptly rips it out to keep, Soraya is pissed and lets him know, Candido just laughs and its infectious.

They play the drums and dance, I go into the ocean with my blue travel beanie and the ocean snatches it away from me. They tell me to take it as an offering to the sea, that the sea deserves it more than I do and to let it go, i agree but im still pissed. They leave to Juchitan for a party and I stay with Pena and the Mushes. I get to know them, they talk about my eyes and try to flirt with me, one of them 'Galleta' or 'Cookie', gives me a headband to wear as a gift and that cheers me up. We go and record their radio show, I hold the mic, the room is boiling hot like a sauna. Dragonflies and birds of many colours play outside. I think about Vianey.